Seacock replacement

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1340fxd
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Seacock replacement

Post by 1340fxd » Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:54 am

Having just purchased a 1993 built Regatta 290 I have to replace the heads sink drain seacock. As it is my first Westerly, can I just check that they didn't use imperial threads? Does anyone know what thread size this seacock is likely to be please?

Also the toilet bowl fills very slowly when the seacocks are shut off. My surveyor says these are adjustable and can be stripped to be cleaned - are there any pictures / articles on how to do this please?

Many thanks

Willhc
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Re: Seacock replacement

Post by Willhc » Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:30 pm

Congratulations on your new purchase! Lots of fun to be had.

Are you planning to change the valve and not the skin fitting? Good luck getting the valve off (and doing so without disturbing the skin fitting) if that is your plan.

I changed one of my seacocks last year, along with the skin fitting. Worth doing the two together, but do be prepared to get the skin fitting off. I ended up having to saw the valve off the skin fitting, then grind the outer off the skin fitting to leave the bronze threaded pipe through the hull. I then used a hacksaw blade to cut the remaining through hull into thirds so I could get it out (wouldn’t budge, even after getting to the backing nut). Bacho make a special hacksaw handle that is great for this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-208-Mini ... B0002YVI7S

On the heads seacocks, are they Blakes? If so, instructions are here: http://www.equipment.ath.cx/instrument_ ... acocks.pdf

Good luck.

Ocean Spirit
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Re: Seacock replacement

Post by Ocean Spirit » Sun Jan 21, 2018 1:14 pm

I recently changed the 1 1/2" cockpit drain seacocks on my Oceanquest and, whilst I was a bit worried about the skin fittings possibly moving, it was very straightforward with no problems.

Looking up into the skin fitting from beneath the hull you will see 2 lugs sticking out and you will need to use a flat bar to stop the fitting moving whilst unscrewing the seacock from inside the boat. I used a flat bar about 1" across (you will probably need a smaller bar depending on the size of the skin fitting) to which I welded another bar at 90 degrees as a handle although it could have been held in place with a large adjustable spanner. The seacocks had been in place for 22 years ( a similar period to yours) but they unscrewed reasonably easily with me applying pressure clockwise whilst the seacocks were unscrewed anti-clockwise. Obviously the reverse when screwing the new ones on. At the worst the skin fittings could move requiring them to be re-bedded or replaced but I would certainly suggest having a go.

I hope it goes well.

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