Rubbing strake - how is it fixed?

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Jolly Roger
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Rubbing strake - how is it fixed?

Post by Jolly Roger » Fri Feb 20, 2015 3:13 pm

Just to let you know I am not a complete expert on Westerly's and need some advice.

I am planning to add a stainless steel flat D section to the wooden rubbing strake, but I need to screw this on with counter sunk screws, probably self tappers rather than wood screws. The material I will be ordering from Wilks is 25mm stainless steel insert and it comes in 4.89m lengths, so 4 will cover both sides. The current cost is £56.23 including VAT per length, but plus carriage. So for under £300 I will be adding any extra level of protection and improve the looks.

Can anyone explain what Westerly did to fit the rubbing strake? I did now want to disturb any of the wood plugs to find out. Is the wood hollowed out behind or solid timber? If hollowed out behind, how much wood is there to screw into? I am also unsure as how the deck and hull were joined. The more I can learn about this area of my Fulmar will make the fitting easier.

The stainless steel will be pre-drilled every 6" (150mm) so will be securely fixed, but the screw length may be critical to retain the watertight integrity of the hull join.
Roger
Concerto Fulmar FR38
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RAUGHTER
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Re: Rubbing strake - how is it fixed?

Post by RAUGHTER » Fri Feb 20, 2015 3:36 pm

Hi
The rubbing strake is bolted through to inside of hull. The nuts on the inside are glassed in . The rubbing strake is a solid piece of timber.
Hope this helps
John
Chase me 397 fulmar

Jolly Roger
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Re: Rubbing strake - how is it fixed?

Post by Jolly Roger » Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:53 pm

Thank you John for that. It will make fitting the stainless steel stip much easier. Just hoping none of the bolts appear under the pre-drilled holes.
Roger
Concerto Fulmar FR38
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mikebuggy
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Re: Rubbing strake - how is it fixed?

Post by mikebuggy » Fri Feb 20, 2015 9:13 pm

Agree with the forgoing. Just to add that the hull-deck join is simple deck-over-hull biscuit lid with the joint being over-laminated in most places internally. The solid teak rubbing strake bolts pass through the joint and the nuts inside are glassed in (usually)...which can be a right P in the A!...as most of us know by now!
Personally I've never found the teak rubbing strake to be a problem!

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rhumlady
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Re: Rubbing strake - how is it fixed?

Post by rhumlady » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:30 pm

On the Konsort there are eight or ten bolts either side that don't go through the rubbing strake. These must have been to hold the hull and deck together prior to fitting the strake. I got totally confused by this when removing the strakes as two nuts next to each other with only one plug on the outside didn't look right.
Mike is right about this being a p in the a as the bolts are cropped and so jam and turn in the glass casing.
Derek
Konsort 'Rhumlady' KT213

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philipstevens
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Re: Rubbing strake - how is it fixed?

Post by philipstevens » Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:51 pm

As Derek says about the cropped bolts. One way is to angle grind the cropped end of the bolts down to the nuts and they should come off a bit easier.

Still a p-i-t-a
regards,
Philip.
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Re: Rubbing strake - how is it fixed?

Post by Jolly Roger » Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:50 pm

The rubbing strake is in pretty good condition considering it is 34 years old and does not need removing. All I needed to know was how thick the timber is for the screws for fixing the stainless steel. It is good to know how the deck join and rubbing strake are fixed, but do not affect my plans.

Thank you to all of you who have replied.
Roger
Concerto Fulmar FR38
Photos at http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/Conce ... 2/library/

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