Removing head from Volvo 2003

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Grangett
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Removing head from Volvo 2003

Post by Grangett »

Hi all,
Want to remove the head to decoke and remove injector sleeves and replace - anyone out there know a reliable and sensibly charging engineer in a Solent area? Have had one quote at £1100 plus VAT! If anyone has done this themselves do you have a step by step guide? Grateful for comments.
Regards, Grangett
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rhumlady
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Re: Removing head from Volvo 2003

Post by rhumlady »

What type of engine?
Derek
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rhumlady
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Re: Removing head from Volvo 2003

Post by rhumlady »

Of just read the heading so I know it's a Valid 2000 series. I must learn to stop jumping in with both feet 8-)
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Re: Removing head from Volvo 2003

Post by aquaplane »

You are not alone, the number of times I have posted a "really good" reply and gone back and realised I have not answered the OP isn't worth looking at.
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mikebuggy
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Re: Removing head from Volvo 2003

Post by mikebuggy »

Hi,
I have done this job, although it was about 4 years back. Turned out to be surprisingly easy. I did baulk at doing the injector sleeves myself though so, once I got the head off, I got RK marine at Bursledon to do that bit for me. As for getting the head off, its just a steady plod. Just progress steadily through item by item (drain engine coolant first) taking notes/photos as you go. Have a sheet of cardboard ready to hold any items such as pushrods and valves, punched through cardboard, numbered correctly and placed in order. have a number of small containers/pots for smaller items. keep each set of items from each location separate, and mark each container.
I cleaned and polished the combustion areas and used a drill to grind in the valves. I bought a VP cyl head overhaul kit which allowed me to replace the valve stem seals as well. To test valves once reassembled, an ordinary dinghy foot pump can be used to pressurise the inlet manifold and/or the exhaust manifold. Use soapy water or leak detection spray on valve faces.
Unless things are really bad, there is often no need to do the pistons or rings......a much bigger job of course!.
Even if you dont do the rings/pistons it is always worth cleaning and honing the bores. There are special tools, but for an old engine, just clean the carbon lip away at the top of the bore and then use a fine-ish grade w and d emery/sand paper to 'frost' the bores. dont do it straight up and down. better to use a spiral or helix motion. get rid of any high gloss polish effect. clean the tops of each piston back to smooth metal.
Any diesel factors can test the injectors, but you can always ask RK to do these as well. In fact I decided to buy exchange ones from RK and they also stuck them in for me.
Beware of the VP2003 head gasket.....it doesnt look like it is 'handed', but believe me it is. I put mine in the wrong way round first time and had to dismantle the whole thing again, buy a new one, and reassemble. It is not always easy to determine which way round is correct because the gasket is 'generic' and some holes match and some dont whichever way round you have it. The instructions are not very clear. My advice is to check that all through holes and channels match and then do a trial assembly but do NOT torque down until you are sure that every fitting, pipe, hole, channel etc has a corresponding place/hole in the gasket.
Once reassembled you will need to readjust valve clearance....and you will have to repeat that again after a few days.
Just cleaning the head, grinding the valves, and replacing the injectors made the engine run very sweetly indeed.
I may have the odd photo of the work still if you need.
The engine was eventually sold as a runner to another member.
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