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Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 12:03 am
Just started working on Concerto again after lots of work on my home this year.
Today I finally managed to fit the teak panels in the cockpit, but heavy rain did stop the work. What a messy job. I used about 30 pairs of gloves and three kitchen rolls, and still the clean up was not perfect. I was advised I would need 3 to 4 tubes of Sikaflex 298, but I have not finished the edges as I ran out. So must order another tube at about £50! To weigh the panels down I used a variety of bins and buckets filled with water. All the surfaces were flat, except the bridgedeck which is curved. The 9mm thick panels flexed easily with a bin at each end. The rain caused a big problem with the green frog tape as it affected the bonding. Besides masking the gel coat, I also masked the top edge of the panels to aid fast cleaning up. A selection of photos have been uploaded to my photobucket account.
There is plenty of work required to get the boat ready for sailing in 3½ days time.
The new Raymarine Evolution 100 Tiller auto pilot needs fitting (bought last September). The backbone has been fitted to the chartplotter, but needs routing to the sail locker to connect the compass head, control box, display head and the ram (all to be fitted as well).
The new Kemp mainsail has been fitted, but the new genoa is still in the bag.
Yesterday I fitted a TillerClutchX as an aid to help whilst singlehanded. http://www.wavefrontmarine.com/
It was voted the beston test by PBO, but but I fitted the larger model. http://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/tiller-locks-tested-23943
Virtually all the new running rigging has been fitted, but I can work with the last of the old for the time being.
The old Hood sails need to be flaked and repacked, but not sure whether to leave them on the boat.
The cabin looks like a bomb has hit it and needs a good tidy and clean up.
There are probably a multitude of other small jobs to be ready to sail, not to mention getting food and clothes on board. Some small jobs should be possible to do whilst sailing.
On Thursday I am heading from Chatham for Dover and the following day I should arrive in Brighton. Provide the weather plays ball of course, then I will be able to join the South East branch meet at Brighton. Then on Monday I sail for the Solent, probably the Hamble, before heading to Portsmouth for the 50th WOA Anniversay meet. Not bad for my first sail of the year and singlehanded all the way.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:49 pm
Been working like mad to get ready for sailing to Dover on Thursday and onward to the Solent.
The teak decking in the cockpit looks lovely and will be perfect once I do the final outboard edge filling to stop water collecting. Most of the excess adhesive on the inboard edges have been sanded clean and makes it look finished. I may have to compound where I may have caught the gel coat, but that is easy to fix. Sorry to busy to take more photos, they will follow in a few days.
The Raymarine Evolution 100 Tiller autopilot is now installed, except for the final electrical connection. As per usual I needed to make a few inspired minor changes. The compass unit and controller are mounted in the sail locker on a new plywood panel fixed on the back of the crockery unit. The backbone connecting the autopilot components has been fed to the back of the main electrical panel for the power for the backbone to be connected. This also means only another backbone cable to connect it to the chart plotter, as I had a spare spur cable and T-connector, and this has already been fitted. The old power cable from the old Autohelm 2000 has been used to provide the power for the controller and the balance of it powers the ram moving the tiller. This saved having to run a new cable through. So tomorrow the system backbone will be connected to the instrument switch and then it is ready for the set up.
One of the things that needed doing tht I had been putting off was updating the charts in the chart plotter. I just kept forgetting to bring the Micro SD card home. For the trip to the 50th WOA Anniversary Meeting in the Solent, I have added a backup paper chart of the Eastern Channel. I also decided to join Visit My Harbour (http://www.visitmyharbour.com/
) so I have downloaded the pdf files for all the harbours from Norfolk to Cornwall so I can look up the information on my laptop without a wifi connection.
There are a mulitude of things still to do tomorrow, but I am sure Concerto will be ready but not completely finished. I am looking forward to using the new running rigging to hoist the new sails, and working the new autopilot. It has been an expensive period since the autumn, but it has been done for my benefit as I intend keeping Concerto for about 10 years.
If you see FR38 on bright white sails come and give me a wave, or come and have a chat in a marina and see the improvements I have made. She is not finished yet, but I have broken the back of the work and spent a lot of time and money doing it. It is hard work and I cannot express the feeling of pride in a job well done. The comments from many other boat owners, not just Westerly owners but from both sail and power boaters. Not surprisingly I have had a number of "When you want to sell, let me know." comments.
PS I have just seen this is my 555 post on this forum!
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2016 11:45 am
Recently had some unexpected problems that needed urgent attention. Travelling from Chatham to Dover on my first sail of the year, I noticed a lack of water from the exhaust and plenty of steam. So whilst in Dover I cleaned the inline water inlet filter as I had never done this and thought this would increase the water flow. So when I left in the morning, the engine overheating warning buzzer sounded between the walls of the western entrance. Panic set it. Quickly I hoisted the mainsail, but with little wind and a very lumpy sea, I was being taken by the tide east wards - not the direction I wanted to go and was taking me towards the busy eastern entrance with ferrys. Thinking things through I could not remember turning the seacock on after cleaning the filter. Ah that will solve it, so after turning it on I restarted the engine to clear the harbour entrance. Unfortunately this did not cool the engine, it started to boil. Bigger panic stations. The genoa was on the deck after a problem the previous day, so that had to be hoisted, not unrolled. This meant I could hold my own against the tide and slowly sail away from the harbour across the tide. The lumpy sea was difficult to keep the boat moving and on course. After about half an hour I removed the radiator cap from the heat exchanger and carefully topped it up with water. This was going to be a long day as Brighton was 60 miles away. I did think about returning to Dover, but without and engine that would have been difficult. Checking the Beta engine manual for probable causes, the main one was some restriction in the heat exchanger and this should be checked every 250 hours. Well I know this had been done by the previous owner and I had only added 60 hours to the clock, so never thought this might be the problem.
So sail is what I did and eventually the wind filled in and I had a lovely beat to Brighton. I had planned to be in by 9pm, but the slow progress sailing and the eventual dropping of the wind at night, meant I had to try the engine again. By keeping the revs to 1400, I found the engine did not overheat. So I could make about 4 knots when the wind finally died. Finally arriving at 3.20am. The thought of sleep was on my mind and immediately retired to bed, but this was to be short lived as Brighton Marina is a building site and work starts early - grrrr. So after chatting with several other Westerly owners I went into Brighton for the day. I returned for a nap and was woken because I was missing the pontoon party.
The following day I was still feeling dazed and due to a poor weather forcast for the following day, virtually all the Westerly owners departed for Littlehampton. So in the afternoon I started removing the core from the heat exchanger. I followed another owners advice and did not drain the cooling system, just let the brown water pour out as the core was removed. Inside both end caps are rubber O-rings that need to be removed before the core can be pushed out according to the manual. The aft one looked perfect, but the front one had dropped on fitting and caused a slow water leak, luckily I did have spare O-rings in my parts stock. Forget about sliding the core out, it ws in solid. Taking a piece of wood I gently tapped the front of the core as it is removed from the back, eventually it come out. Half of the core was almost completely blocked with a soft chalky coating, whilst the other half was almost clear. I should have photographed this but my hands were filthly. The core is about a foot long and two inches in diameter and is made up of lots of small brass tubes. There were no markings on the outside of the core so I scratched an arrow to know which way in it should go. To clean the core I used a small screwdriver and plenty of water from the pontoon tap. It was relatively simple, but tedious job to do. I was just about to restart fitting it when David Clare from Morning Mist came over to see how I was getting on. He then said had I noticed that one end of the core had a slot, no I had not. (See the photos of the difference in my photo link). David explained that water comes into the bottom half of the core and exits from the top half. The penny then dropped the core had been almost completely blocked! (The photo of the rear heater exchange cover shows exactly this.) He went back to his boat I continued refitting the core. The core anode had been checked at the end of last season and had been fine, but this had gone, so fitted a new one. Everything went back together easily, making sure the front O-ring did not drop. Now for the real test to see if water flow had been restored. Turned the engine key, the warning lights and buzzer worked, but the starter did not work. I checked for missing or damaged wires, then read the manual for starting faults. If salt water gets on the starter motor, it needs to be removed and dried. Well the starter motor is almost driectly under the heat exchanger stack. David had returned to see the progress and we both thought the starter needed to come off. I had sockets, but access to the port side of the engine was limited. Nothing for it, but cut a new opening in the engine cover. The Fein multitool did a lovely job, but did not cut completely through the lead line sound insulation foam, so a long knife and a piece of plywood did the trick. By now it was gone 9pm, and with better access I realised that one starter holding bolt needed an extension for the socket. I did not have an extension onboard.
David was due to be leaving early in the morning, so I resigned myself to another trip into Brighton to get an extension. Well David did not like the forecast so decided to stay another day. He had some extension bars, which he lent me. I tried getting the extension bar to the starter bolt, but it seemed impossible. So a call to Beta technical to see how to remove the starter as it looked like the heat exchanger would need removing. The technical guy, did not know but went and checked an engine. Yes the extension will just fit and do not remove the heat exchanger as that will cause even more problems. When I tried again, the extension passed the other side of a bunch of cables and fitted. Five minutes later the starter was out. It looked absolutely perfect and was not wet. So refitted it and as I withdrew the socket, it dropped between the starter and the engine. David turned up at this moment and offered his help. Between us we could not get it out. I was resigning myself to eaving it there and buying a new one. Then the lightbulb moment happened, David had sockets, so remove the starter again. We must have wasted over an hour trying to get the socket out. This had not solved the starter working, so I phoned Beta again for suggestions. Drew a blank, but suggested I contact the local Beta agent in Brighton Marina. They were busy but should be able to send his son over later to have a look. So David and I waited, then had some lunch, and waited and waited. We chatted about engines and what the problem was likely to be, deciding the 40 amp fuse and holder looked corroded and could be the problem. We had checked power was going to all the switch contacts, but we are not expert marine electricians or engineers. Well at 4 o'clock I phoned again, only to be told they were too busy and would only be able to come out the following day. So we walked to the other end of the marina and bought a new fuse holder and fuse, plus a few replacement service parts. The only suggestion we were given was to check the continuity of the white and red cable going to the starter motor.
We fitted the new fuse holder and fuse, crossed our fingers the engine would start, but the engine said no. We then checked the continuity of the red and white coloured starter cable from the key switch to the starter motor - no power even with the key in the start position. There must be a break in the cable. I managed to cobble together some wire to replace it and tested it. The engine started, so quickly stopped the engine. David said he had a coninuous piece of wire on his boat that would do and I found some new connectors from my stock. Getting the screw out from the key block was difficult as I did not have a stumpy star head screw driver, so a mole wrench sufficed. Fitted the new wire and tested it. The engine worked and I switched it off. Then I realised I had not checked the amount of water coming out of the exhaust, yes the quantity was excellent. Went to stop the engine and the stop button would not work. It had worked a minute earlier, so the manual stop was used. New head scratching problem. Nothing had changed between when it worked and when it did not. My though was some moisture must have entered the joint between the engine loom and the control panel loom. It was covered with a soft plastic cover and lots of electrical tape, so it took a few minutes to remove the tape. The jointing block had come apart and as soon as it was pushed together tightly and tested the engine, everything worked correctly. We had never considered this as a possible problem area as they usually have locking pins to hold the joint together. The sense of relief of solving the problem without an expert was great. I then joined David and his wife Gill for a meal and we polished off 2 bottles of wine.
The only things to do now are refit the existing white and red cable to the starter motor and fit some catches to the new engine access panel. Overall it was very frustrating, but I did learn a lot about my engine and I now have even better access for servicing.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 8:05 pm
Living on Concerto for the past couple of weeks has revealed a few new problems I did not know of.
The central and two reading lights on the port side in the main cabin no longer work. It is not a fuse, but probably a bad connection. So some checking required to trace the cables and test everything.
There is a slight weep from a couple of deck fittings in rough water, nothing serious but will need attention in the near future.
There are three static deck vents, one in the loo compartment (looks original to Westerly) and two in the forward cabin. Both forward ones seem to leak, so I purchased some new plastic mushroom kits. Fitting the first one made it clear what the problem was. It was incorrectly fitted. The top mushroom was fine, but damaged and discoloured. The inner mushroom had been fitted upside down and not separately fixed. So any water getting under the mushroom was able to flow over the inner mushroom and down the air vent. Not only that, the balsa core had not been sealed, nor had the bolt holes, so the balsa core is wet. Fitting the new parts correctly should make a difference, so for the moment I am leaving the core to dry in the flow of air. Later I will investigate further and decide if some core removal will be necessary and filled with a waterproof filler.
Whilst in Portsmouth for the 50th celebrations I went to a talk by XW Rigging, which was very interesting. Yup it cost me a new spinnaker pole as my old one was past repair. Paul suggested a carbon fibre at just over a £1000, sorry but no. Then a Selden one which would have been just over £500. In the end I went with a Z-spars one for £390, which is a slightly smaller section and a lot lighter than the old one.
One other small job I feel pleased to complete was fixing velcro to the plywood backs of the saloon berths to fix the back cushions in place. For this I used lots of stainless steel staples and a staple gun. The only real trouble is I changed from 3" cushions to 4" cushions and the removable plywood backrests are too tight a fit, so I will have to ease the bottom edge by about half an inch. A job for my router when I am back in my home marina.
When I was off Dover I had a problem with the roller reefing of the genoa, the halyard did a turn around the forestay. Well this was repeated another day. So I removed the genoa and cleaned the top swivel as this was getting stiff with dirt encrusted grease. It was surprising how much I managed to remove with a small screwdriver and lots of kitchen paper in three quarters of an hour. It now rotates freely. Also checking the halyard exit at the top of the forestay with binoculars, showed another cause. There are two genoa sheaves, but only one has a bullseye to limit the amount of twist in the halyard as described in the Furlex manual. Yes, you guessed it, it was not the one being used. So I have withdrawn the new halyard leaving a messenger and used the other messenger to pull it through to use the bullseye. For those who have never done this , you should have a loop on the end of the halyard to which I knotted and taped the messenger to, there are a couple of photos in the file. When I unfurled and refurled the genoa today, it was the easiest and smoothest I have ever known it to be. Later I shall use a proper degreaser and lubricate the top swivel with a teflon based waterproof grease.
Another small but very fiddly job took an hour and a half. Two of the ring pull catches in the saloon lockers kept opening in rough water. So they needed adjustment, not a job I enjoy. The best way to do this is as follows. Mark the centre of the catch on the main woodwork. Measure the distance the catch is from the face of the woodwork - one was 20mm and the other was 25mm! Check how far the latch is from the face of the woodwork and adjust along the slotand retighten (in a perfect world). It is easiest if you remove the door before adjusting the latch position. Well one fitting must have been a problem for some time as I found 4 different screw holes after I finally removed the chewed up screw. The solution was quite simple, remove the block it was fixed to and turn over! You will probably need a dumpy screw driver, I found the Draper ratchet one with a selection of heads for £10 very good for this job. http://www.force4.co.uk/draper-chubby-r ... 3azRaKhsv4
For nearly a year I have been meaning to fit the Fushion stero system I had on board. The head unit is now mounted just above the top step of the companionway as this allows easy electrical connection to the switch panel and can be used from the cabin or outside. I have decided the position of the speakers is to be at the aft end of the galley and aft end of the chart table in the panels with sliding doors. The back of the speakers will protrude little into the cupboards and makes easy routing of the cables. The problem at present is to cut the round holes as I do not have the right size hole cutter. I then thought of the Dremel as it has a variable radius arm, unfortunately this cannot be used due to the beading of the sliding doors. Then I had a brainwave, there is a attatchment for clearing grout from tiles and this can be progressively deepened. It just needs a hole in the side for a cord to be passed through that can swing around a screwhead, and a perfect circle can be cut.
The engine has been put through some use and the water flow is excellent and does not overheat any more - even under high revs. The new sails, autopilot and tiller clutch are all working well and I can say were money well spent.
PS Photos now loaded.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 12:52 am
Just cannot believe it has been 2½ months since I last posted. Sorry, but I have been sailing too much (about 800 miles this year so far). Recently I went to the Ipswich meeting for a few days, but did hardly any of my planned jobs.
Been too busy to check the faulty lighting circuit, but I have purchased a new multimeter to help locate the fault. The stachions have not been checked for leaks yet, but I have had both gate stanchions on the port side damaged by a yacht's anchor and these will have to be replaced. The owner has already admitted liability, but I will be very fair as to costs as I will do the work myself.
Still not changed the other 2 deck vents yet, but the damp balsa core in the other one has fully dried out and not gone rotten. It must have only been a recent soaking from heavy windward sailing. This winter I will seal the balsa core correctly on all vents.
In an involuntary gybe in heavy wind, the cheek of my main sheet lower block became chipped and started jumping off the pulley. They are Easymatic blocks with a choice of 3:1 or 6:1 sheeting. After some checking I found they are still made and marketed by Seamark Nunn. http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/eas ... -1583.html
I decided to replace top and bottom blocks at a cost of just over £175 and the old ones will be going on eBay. The new blocks are a lot better and run very freely as there is reduced friction, so well worth the money.
The old kicking strap is being changed to a rigid vang from Z Spars. This was ordered yesterday at the Southampton Boat Show and will be with me next week. I could not believe that the Selden vang was double the price, but this is very normal on all their masts and parts. Concerto's mast is by Kemp (now part of Selden), having been replaced in 1996 after a rigging failure. It already has the swivelling mast tang fitted, but it needs a slight alteration as it is too wide for the vang fork. So it has been removed and is on its way to Z Spars for a free alteration.
The pair of new strip lights for the forward cabin have finally been fitted, 2 years after buying them! They were just not near the top of my priorities.
The final sealing of the edges of the teak cockpit seats has been done. All I have to do is the final sanding smooth of the adhesive and minor finishing to the gel coat where black adhesive got into some very fine scratches.
Whilst at the Southampton Boat Show I bought a couple of extra spherical fenders and an extra 25m mooring warp. Also I will be trying the traditional Le Tonkinois varnish on my tiller. This is an oil based varnish with linseed and tung oil, plus pure resin. It is excellent for marine environments - both interior and exterior. If applied to bare wood, then it soaks into the wood rather than form a hard skin over it like a polyurathane. For external use they recommend 5 to 8 coats with at least 24 hours between coats. Brush marks are supposed to just disappear to leave a smooth gloss surface that is waterproof, hard wearing, resistant to chemicals and boiling water, plus it is UV resistant. There is also an addative to get a satin or matt surface. Once the tiller has been completed, I shall be using it on the cabin plywood sole, so watch this space for further comments. http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk
The foam backed vinyl suffering the dreaded droop in the forward cabin is getting closer to the top of my jobs this winter. My plan is to alter the shelves fitted to the hull sides into proper lockers by making proper plywood fronts.Also I inted to change the underside of the deck to be covered with vinyl covered plywood panels. Not only will this improve the storage, but radically improve the look of the cabin, making t look clean and tidy. Chatting with Hawke House yesterday was very useful on my plans. The manufacturing and delivery of what is required usually takes about 10 days. It is possible for a single person to do this, so my comments will appear later on how I got on.
Recently Concerto seemed to be down by the bow. I thought the holding tank must be filling with fluid, but I cannot empty this in the locked in marina basin. When I was in the river, it seemed as though the exit pipework might be blocked. So I bought some Elsan Blue to help break down any solids. The easiest way to add it without putting more fluid in the tank, was to remove the top plate on the tank. Not that easy as all the bolts came out too easily as the threads in the tank had rusted through and the seal between the tank and top plate would not break. Putting my thinking cap on I decided to remove the breather vent and pour the Elsan Blue in to the tank that way. The following day it took some effort to pump out and stopped quickly. Dashing on deck, I saw lots of strong colour in the river water. So the tank was empty after all. It was only later did I see the water tank was almost empty and also the fuel tank as well. These are both under the cockpit and now filled, so floating level again. To fix the top plate back down I bought some self tappers, however they were not big enough when I tried using them, so I bought some larger ones. The same applied again and had to buy some even bigger ones. These held well on most of the tank, but the seal on the tank had started to come appart and the screws were not pulling it tight. As a temporary fix I have used some monel rivets, that are too small. I now need to buy some larger ones for a permanent fix and use some Duralac anti corrosion jointing paste. If only I had checked the obvious first, I would avoided a problem and saved a lot of time and cost!
One new problem I discovered is the engine hour meter on the VDO rev counter in the engine control panel has stopped working. Beta Marine said this is extremely common as moisture has entered the electronics. There is no solution to fix this and this size dial is no longer made by VDO. The only solution is a mechanical engine hour meter at a cost of about £50. Ah, but I can reconnect the old engine hour meter from the Bukh, so a no cost fix! All I have to do is connect it to the green light on the control panel. Whether I can reset the existing engine hour, I will have to wait and see if it is possible. If not it is not the end of the world - provided I record the hours the old engine has done and remember this engine has done nearly 500 hours in past 7 years.
Hope you enjoy reading this thread finding it instructive and inspirational. Sorry no new photos at present.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Sun May 14, 2017 12:12 am
Wow, no post since September. Well not much has been happening other than changing the engine oil and filters.
A Fulmar owner has asked for details of the fitting of the Raymarine EV100 tiller pilot. So today I photographed all the components and have added them to my photo file.
Today was a day to work on Concerto, but was not too successful. The Fusion CD radio I fitted last year has not worked, so I checked the power connections and found power on the unit side of the inline fuse, but it still refused to turn on. So I removed the unit so it can be sent away for checking/repair.
Then I started checking why the tri-colour light and all round white at the top of the mast had stopped working. Power was passing the switches. So I checked the deck plugs and found some fractured cables. During the checking of the plug, the deck flood stopped working and I found a fractured cable in the deck fitting, but the grub screw has been chewed in the past, so the whole plug needs changing. Luckily I have a 3 pin DryPlug, but it took ages to locate, so it has not yet been fitted. The other deck plug will also be changed as I want to avoid problems in the future. It was too bright to see if the masthead lights were working, if not it will be a trip up the mast to check the power and bulbs.
Concerto has been in the water for 22 months, and she has a very dirty bottom with some weed just starting to grow along the waterline. Chatham Maitime Marina is a low growth area and the water has virtually no mud in the water, plus being about 10 meters deep, remains fairly cold during the summer months. Fast sailing has usually cleaned most of the muck from the bottom. She is booked to be lifted on 24 May for a couple of weeks for fresh antifouling. I will report back on the lanolin based grease that was applied to the propeller, as it is supposed to keep barnacles from sticking.
Shortly after launching I shall start a sailing holiday and am aiming to sail to the Isles of Scilly and back in 3 weeks. So everything must be carefully checked.
At present Concerto is in need of a good clean and polish. Even in her dirty state I keep getting favourable comments at how good she looks for a 37 year old boat.
Thank you all for reading this thread as I believe it is the 2nd most popular thread on the Forum and will shortly exceed 10,000 views. Never did I expect such a following when I started. I hope it can encourage some of you to improve your Westerlies to keep them sailing for decades to come. Westerlys were built to last and I believe they will still be sailing when many of the modern boats with their technically engineered hulls suffer irreparable or costly damage due to light weight construction.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 12:36 am
Concerto was lifted on Wednesday 24 May, after spending 22 months in the water without a scrub. Check the new photos in the link in my signature and there was not a barnacle on the hull, just a light slime. OK I will spill the beans on how this was achieved. Firstly I used International Micron 2 in Dover White. This was rated as the best colour of the best performing antifouling when applied. The cleaned hull shows a green tinge from the high copper content, so it is worth the £100 a 2.5 litre tin. Secondly I berth in Chatham Maritime Marina. This is one of the basins from the old naval dockyard at Chatham. It is roughly 10 metres deep with very little mud particles in the water, so little grows. Under the pontoon floats there are muscles growing and a little weed. The muscles are food for the seagulls, and the mullet and bream eat the weed.
The growth on the port side was slightly greater than the starboard side, except the rudder. This is because the port side faces south and has more light and warmth in the water. Also I moor starboard to, so this side is closer to the pontoon floats.
The propeller and prop shaft did have a few barnacles. The propeller had been protected with PropShield and the pink tinge on the hub shows it was still there. The blades were fairly clean as the PropShield had been worn off, but the folding blades still opened and closed easily and propelled the boat fairly efficiently. The PropShield certainly seemed to be beneficial and I shall be re-applying it. By comparison, the propeller was covered with barnacles the last time I scrubed after 12 months as only underwater grease had been applied to the metal.
The starboard side of the keel has rust about 6" up from the bottom. This was the result of a hard grounding on sand with rocks, wearing all the paint off. It actually look worse than it actually is. It has been sanded back and there is no pitting in the iron. It has been treated with Fertan and currently I am applying Primocon.
The main anode looks in fairly good condition but is going to be replaced, along with the original bolts being changed to studs. The shaft anode had completely dissolved with nothing left. There are no signs of any electrolosis on the propeller or shaft. I rarely connect to a 240V supply and the 12V is turned off unless I need power. By doing this I reduce the potential for setting up a higher amount of electrolosis.
Now out of the water, it has allowed me to strip all the fittings and varnish off the tiller. Some parts were bare wood that had gone grey and the rest was a pale yellow colour. Well I was surprised to find it is a light reddish colour after sanding and the first coat of Le Tonkinoise varnish. I expect to apply about 8 to 10 coats of thi traditional varnish. The wood around the main hatch has now been partially stripped and this will be varnished with a similar number of coats. I am planning the do the same with the wooden pocket in the starboard coaming side and the hand rails on deck.
Over the weekend I am planning to fill a few chips in the gel coat on the hull and deck. Then I shall compound the hull and apply polish. The boot top will be repainted, followed by the antifouling.
Oh, nearly forgot. The Fushion radio would not work as an additional cable needed connecting. It was not in the fitting instructions, but was on the FAQ's on the web site. Boy is it powerfull, I have not turned it up to full volume as it is so powerful through the 6" speakers. The old ariel has been re-routed to the Fusion, but I need a new connector to make the radio work, but the CD player is great.
All of this work, plus a few other small jobs, must be completed for launching on 14 June - just 3 weeks! On the 19th I set sail heading for the Isles of Scilly.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 11:07 pm
Since Concerto came out of the water I have been working on her every day except one.
The rusty parts of the keel has been treated with Fertan and 5 coats of Primocon applied.
The tiller now has 7 coats of varnish and is looking lovely, but with still more coats to be applied. The external wood around the main hatch has been stripped back to bare wood and has had 5 coats of varnish. The wooden cockpit locker in the starboard coaming has been stripped and the edging has 4 coats of varnish. The inside is not in very good condition, so the edges will be strengthened with an epoxy filler and then will be painted with white Danbolin. It should make this look like it was original rather than a previous owner's addition.
The 4 varnished wooden hand rails on the coachroof have suffered over the past couple of years, so I have stripped the first ready for varnishing. It took about 2 hours to remove the varnish to be ready for sanding, so there is another 6 hours needed before I can start varnishing them.
The strip of gel coat between the rubbing strake and the toe rail had never been touched, but this has now been dry sanded with 500 grit ready for compounding to a high shine. The edges of the toe rail and rubbing strake had remnants of varnish that had to be scrapped out with a chisel, then old sanding had created a groove in the gel coat that had filled with varnish, which had to be scrapped out before sanding. This has taken 2 days so far, but will make Concerto look a lot smarter.
The port topside was compounded today and will be polished tomorrow. The starboard side and transom should be completed on Tuesday.
Looking like I should get virtually everything completed before launching on the 14th, but it will be tight.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:23 am
Since my last post I have been working hard. In three weeks only one day not working on Concerto.
The hull has been fully compounded and polished. There is still some slight cream tint to some areas of the hull, so I may need to do some greater remedial work when out of the water again. Have not had time to compond and polish between the toe rail and rubbing strake, but that can be done in a marina berth.
The boot top and antifoul have been completed. New anode bolts and anode have been fitted, along with a propshaft anode. The propeller and shaft have been coated with Prop Shield.
The varnishing has progressed well.The tiller has 10 coats, the companionway has 7 coats, the small locker in the cockpit has 6 coats but still needs the inside to be filled and painted. The coachroof handrails have been stripped and sanded with the first 2 coats applied but 3 or 4 more will be applied by Saturday.
The CD radio now receives radio signals after getting the correct connector. I traced why the port main cabin lights had stopped working. The power cable had come loose from a light fitting, still took a while to trace. The main cabin light also was still not working, but when tested there was power to the fitting so a new bulb solved that. I fitted an extra digital battery charger from Aldi, a bargain at £15.99. All I need to do now is add an extra double 240V socket in the battery compartment so the 2 battery chargers can be kept ready for switching on when connected to shore power.
Today I checked the loo outlet seacock and found it had stuck fast again. So I decided to tackle the problem. A quick photograph on my phone showed it was still a Blakes seacock. So I started to try and get to dismantle it. No way could I get at it, so I took off the sliding door panel under the sink. It was secured by tapped bolts directly into the fiberglass. Now I could get my head in and with the aid of a torch, I could see access was terrible. It was almost under the foot pump and close to the inlet seacock and the moulding, but there were holding tank pipes also stopping access. The easier to get at locking nut was only finger tight, but the bolt came out easily. The second bolt had a smaller bolt tapped into it for the grounding earth cable. Again the locking nut was loose, but I dropped it and it rolled under the floor moulding never to be seen again. I had to remove the tapped earhing bolt so I could remove the second bolt. What a pig of a job as I had to use sockets and a selection of spanners, I sweated buckets but luckily my knuckles remained untouched. Once I had it apart I gave it a quick clean and then used grinding paste to grind the fitting for a better fit, then I did it again. From the look of the fitting I doubt if it had been serviced for 20 years, knowing how difficult is was to remove I am not surprised. Once cleaned up, I then used Blakes seacock grease as lubricant. Then it was a question of reassembly and ensuring the top plate was not too tight, otherwise it went tight. I have left the earthing cable off until I have checked it does not leak when launched.
Then I had a looked at servicing the top of the Furlex. It was very stiff to turn due to too much old grease had gone hard. The fixings were held together with bolts with Torx heads, luckily I had a good selection in my tools. To ensure none of the 68 ball bearings got lost whilst dismantling the unit, I used a bin bag as a safety net. This saved dropping about a dozen stainless steel ball bearings. Every one was cleaned with kitchen paper and dropped into a container. The most of the grease was removed with kitchen paper before using some paper soaked in petrol to remove the rest. Once cleaned, I stripped the bin bag off and checked exactly how it all fitted back together. Then I used a new clean bin bag as a safety net and taped each part to drop down as needed during reassembly. The holder for the ball bearings was greased to hold the 34 ball bearings and the top portion refitted and then repeated to the top roller bearing. Dropped about 10 during assembly, so the bag did its job. Once the unit was locked together, it was raised to the top holder and the Torx bolts refitted. It was a messy job, but the top spinner for the halyard now spins freely.
So ready for launching tomorrow. I will try and add some more photos tomorrow evening. Sorry no photos of the Furlex as it was too greasy to do whilst working.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:26 am
Photos have now been added to the photo file. Just realised I have no photos of the completed varnish work.
The launch went well. Booked for starting moving at 2pm, but in the water before 1pm! Good job I was prepared.
One extra job I did today was to remove 20mm off the bottom of both main cabin back rests. I found they were difficult to get out to access the storage space behind as I had increased the bunk cushion thickness by an inch. The supports on the berth edge for the back rests to be slotted in to make solid leeboards also need to be lifted. A job for another day.
Once launched I checked the toilet outlet seacock did not leak. The engine started at the first attempt.
Another coat of varnish has been applied to the handrails.
The rig has been retensioned, awaiting a sailing test to check the mast is straight on both tacks. Once finished I will use new split pins and tape over them to stop snagging.
Getting prepared for leaving for the Isles of Scilly on Sunday afternoon, so lots more to do hence this very late post.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:55 pm
A couple of photos of the varnish work have been added to the photo file.
Currently on passage to the Isles of Scilly and found a few urgent repairs needed.
The major one was I condemed the gas hose from the regulator as I found some cracks. This was strange as the cooker hose seemed fine and was dated 2010, so due for replacement. So for 2 days I had no cooker until I could get some hose. This was changed whilst sailing and I was shocked to find this hose was dated 1991, yes 1991. This meant that the last owner, who had Concerto for 14 years, never changed this hose but did change the cooker one. ????????? It only cost a few pounds to do this. I have changed both now. Whilst the cooker was lifted out, I decided to clean years of grease splatter, this took over 2 hours and looks clean now. The cooker is being changed this winter.
The socket holder for the autopilot has taken a battering and started to come loose. It was loose enough to be lifted out and found what I thought was plywood, was in fact balsa core. So I scooped out as much as I could with some hook tools. The brass socket was cleaned and scored. The teak deck was taped over to catch any overflow and the hole cut out, then I poured in some slightly thickened epoxy, finally inserting the socket. It now feels rock solid.
A few imrovements will be added to the list, most notable is a couple of grab handles in the toilet compartment. Hard on the wind on starboard tack, it is difficult to arise from the seated position!
When anchored in deeper water than usual, I found the chain that is rarely used has built up a coating and refused to go through the anchor winch. So it will all have to come out and be cleaned thoughly.
No doubt I shall find a few other minor maintenance problems in the next couple of weeks.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 12:00 am
Photos of the gas hose and autopilot socket repair have now been loaded to the photo file, plus some others for the bits below.
Whilst away on holiday I have been doing some maintenance and cabin cleaning. Simple jobs that do not take long, but were not high on my list of things to do. I could not believe the fluff and dirt behind the sliding panel for the double bed as I never have needed to use it.
Looking through boxes and bags, I discovered I had bought a combined 12 volt and dual USB socket. This would solve my mobile phone charging problem. The original 12 volt socket was mounted forward of the batteries, but needed to be moved as I could only mount the new dual socket in that position. However the recent purchase of a dusk till dawn LED anchor light meant I need to use both 12 volts sockets as one is permantently connected to the cool box. Underneath my battery switch I found a small hole where an instrument had been mounted in the past, but ideal to enlarge for the old socket. Holes were duly drilled and the sockets fitted. However thinking about the existing power cable, I decided to connect this to a chocolate box and have three new cables to go to each socket. So it is really a simple loom to enable parts to be added or removed at a later date. The marking for the polarity of the sockets is difficult so see when in your hand, but impossible once fitted. The solution is simple, a short piece of red electrical tape with a slot in it, pushed over each positive terminal. Easy to see, so no mistakes can be made in connecting up or in the future.
Another problem I found is sea water on the headlining and the front of the main hatch. Sometines it runs to the lee side and sometimes it runs to the main bulkhead. It took a while to work out how the water was entering. On days sailing in rough weather, with the occassional green sea landing on the coachroof, some water was forced through the slot in the spray rail for the halyards. It then ran onto the deck and against the wooden runner for the main hatch. My boat loads slightly bow down as I only sail singlehanded and not always having full tanks. This means the water does not flow aft into the cockpit as with a full crew, but forward under the main hatch box. It should flow out the drain holes on the lee side, but some is entering the cabin. The quick fix solution was a kitchen sponge forced in the rope slot and a J-cloth in the side of the hatch box. This nearly completely stopped the water entry. The final solution will be fitting dinghy centreplate rubber with holes for the ropes over the slots and to seal the hole by the hatch runner in a similar way.
One job very nearly completed is fitting the buttons to the new berth cushions. The main cabin is finished, just leaves the forward berths and quarter berth. Unfortunately both are not easily removed at present due to items on them, but will be done shortly.
Whilst away I have been making a list of everything that still needs to be done in the renovations. That is all jobs, big and small. The list continues to grow, however two items have now been deleted! No doubt it will grow slightly longer over time.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:02 am
It's like Hydra - you cut off one head and two grow in its place.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 8:43 am
Well time to work on Concerto has been limited recently, but I have just fitted the Z-Spar rigid vang to replace the old rope kicking strap and installed a new main outhaul.
The rope kicking strap was difficult to remove as the shackles at each end had distorted with the high loading (see the photo). All the fittings on the underside of the boom were removed, but the kicking strap fitting had 3 rivets holding it. Two rivets were easy to drill out, but the last one rotated in the hole. This caused a problem to drill it out, but eventually I managed to drill it out after using a punch to distort the shape of the rivet to stop it turning. The hole had enlarged due to corrosion between the stainless steel fitting and the aluminum extrusion. It looked as no Duralac jointing compound had been used. The load on this fitting had dented the bearing surface of the fitting (see the photo).
The rigid vang should be 1.75 times the height from the lower vang pin to the under side of the boom for the optimal angle of support for the boom. The vang as supplied was definitely too long, so I followed the fitting instructions and reduced smaller tube by 40cm. I marked the cutting position with tape to ensure it was square to the tube, a hacksaw easily cut the alloy tube and I then filed any rough edges. The vang had to be fitted in position with the old boom kicking strap fitting being reused. As this was still loose along the boom, a rope was fitted from the fitting, round the mast and back to a genoa winch to hold it securely and still able to adjust it along the boom. When the vang was test fitted to the boom and topping lift slackened off, it was still far too long. I checked the maximum I could reduce the smaller tube and this was a further 10cm, but this was still not enough. Any further reduction was impossible before the larger tube was stopping any further reduction. The fitting instructions state that the outer larger tube should not be cut. A phone call to Z-Spars and they confirmed the outer tube can be reduced. A further test fitting showed the inner tube needed to be reduced by a further 25cm and the outer tube by 30cm to allow for a little bit of extra compression room. So eventually the inner tube was reduced by 75cm (nearly 30 inches!) and the outer tube by 30cm. This length was still slightly too long, but close enough to the ideal length. It held the boom level with mainsail and stack pack, but could still be compressed slightly more to drop the boom below horizontal by about 4 degrees and still cleared the sprayhood (if not then the fitting on the boom needed moving closer to the mast). Finally I had to drill and rivet the old boom fitting using ¼" monel rivets with Duralac.
Whilst working on the boom I decided to fit the new clew outhaul line to replace the old wire and rope combination. My first surprise was the remnants of an old birds nest within the boom. To run the new line through I thought a spanner on a light line inserted at the outer end and lifting the boom almost vertical would be the easiest method, but no it was not. Then I brought from home some cable installing rods and it was very easy to pass the rope along. To help get it over the pulley wheels at each end, I used some dental probes as they could hook the rope casing. The old outhaul has not yet been removed as I am checking exactly what is inside the boom, as the wire has some broken strands and must be removed. It looks like the wire is fixed to a block, probably on a rectangular face plate, and the rope has a 2:1 purchase within the boom.
I had expected the whole job would take a couple of hours, but it took 9 hours over two days. It certainly looks smart and means I do not have to worry about the topping lift any more.
Next month I am planning a major job, so watch this space.
Re: Renovations to Fulmar Concerto
Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 10:20 am
Thanks for taking the time to show me Concerto yesterday and for all the advice you've given me. A lot more than I was able to absorb
so am sure I will be asking you more in future.
I was really impressed with how good Concerto is looking even if you feel you have more to do. When I compare her with my own boat, I can see how much work I still have to do myself. I feel inspired!
I look forward to see Concerto and yourself in action out on the water sometime.