Westerly Owners Association

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Does not look too much different to my Centaur (sail no 1702, 1977/8). The cross bracing on the left of your photo looks remarkably similar to what I have. I have the documentary evidence that strengthening had been done to mine. She has been on a half tide mud mooring for the last 6 years with no w...

Similar to NDT228 I also installed a new depth transducer but rather than "Wriglies" I used Blue Tack. Once I found I was getting reliable info I just bedded the transducer face onto a glob of silicon bath sealant ensuring that there were no air bubbles in the sealant. Jobs a good'en all through 201...

Many seem to mention grub screws, but for my cutlass bearing change this year there was just one single and very small cut down roll pin holding the bearing housing metal from rotating in the top hat shaft support on my Centaur. So be aware that there will be something preventing the unimpeded withd...

My socket is in the stern locker on my Centaur virtually amidships. The rcd, 13 amp 3 pin sockets and battery charger are all located in teh starboard locker so keeping all the big volts stuff together. The only downside is that the locker lid cannot be properly closed when shore power is connected....

My Centaur on a half tide mooring on the Blackwater gets the same treatment as 'Jsharp' applies.

Only last year did it warrant any attention half way through the season, but last year was particularly barnacle problematic in our area.

Unc

Cant tell you how to fix it but can advise that my Rev counter gave up the ghost year before last. Not sure if was the sender or the instrument itself. I could not get any sign of a pulse via the wires from the sender so ditched it and bought a Rev counter via an autoelectrics supplier (my son in la...

Your second matter first. My Centaur has serious prop walk to Starboard in reverse. The hefty BHP/torque from the MDIIC and high pitched prop being the main reasons I guess. If you know its there, so use it to advantage, ( its quite a party trick parallel parking on a suitable pontoon between two bo...

Well done Jolly Roger your determinantion, research and patience seems to have been rewarded.

Hopefully might see your vessel at on of the East coats get togethers next year.

Unc

Firstly thanks to the the Forum Administrator for separating this from the original thread. It is better placed here for future reference. Thanks Bertgear for finding that one on ebay. Has got me thinking. My next plan is as follows now that I have 'de painted' the rudder back to resin coating. Firs...

You guys thanks so much for taking the time to educate me. I'll now ponder my intent. Rog you are correct I have been reviewing your progress and this episode has made me go back and look again at stuff you have done. It would be nice to have a spare rudder shaft to make a replacement rather than ma...

Many thanks for the rudder info. Not sure of the construction of the rudder. I assume that there are tangs off the rudder shaft which transmit the torque against something solid inside the blade. Surely that solid something is not Foam? Looking at one side from which I have removed all the antifouli...

Many thanks Rog, I hoped that you would know given that you have virtually stripped your boat down to every individual part. Will get my modelling allen keys out and give a go this sfternoon. Just found out this morning that the rudder is half full of water, some of which could be 35 years old I gue...

Started dismantling bits in order to change cutlass/cutless bearing. Having read the forum and tech articles mention is made of small set screw(s) in the top hat housing which retain the cutlass bronze/brass bearing outer shell . I have so far only found one (stbd side) which looks so very, very sma...

Try most DIY stores . Google 'slldiing cabinet door hardware'.

Should be easy to come by but of course may not be in the fetching shade of 70's Brown, so may have to change the lot. Its a little 'joblet' I have to do this winter on my Centaur